What do you need to know about climbing Mount Everest?

Here's everything you'd ever want to know about the world's tallest mountain
An increasingly accessible accomplishment
It's still very dangerous
Where is Everest located?
How high is its peak?
Extreme weather conditions
The wind is the mountain's most difficult challenge
When is the best time to go?
When was Everest discovered?
The first expedition up Everest
The first expedition
Second attempt
What is the
Oxygen aid to survive
1924: a fatal expedition for George Mallory
The death of George Mallory and Andrew Irvine
A body found intact
They likely didn't make it to the top
1950: opening of the Nepalese route
The first people to reach the summit of Everest
Conquering the feat
Beginning of commercial expeditions
A very high price
Sherpas always accompany mountaineers
The ascent permit
Getting a permit isn't easy
More security
Drama and controversy
1996: a dramatic year
The amateur mountaineers neglected the weather
A violent storm
2019: deadly traffic jams
A sad and famous photo
2020: a client files a complaint against his guide
How many mountaineers have reached Everast's summit in 2022?
Most lives lost on Everest
Heroes erased
Here's everything you'd ever want to know about the world's tallest mountain

Mount Everest is one of the most imposing mountains on Earth and climbing to the top of this geological behemoth has become a right of passage for some of the world's most extreme daredevils. But what do you know about what it takes to scale the world's tallest peak?

An increasingly accessible accomplishment

Summiting Mount Everest used to be a feat reserved for only the most seasoned mountaineers but it's increasingly become an accomplishment that almost anyone in the world can check off their bucket list.

It's still very dangerous

That's not to say that climbing to the summit of Mount Everest isn't still dangerous. It's certainly not for the faint of hearts. But making it to the top is easier than ever. If you're thinking about making the trek there are a few things you might want to know!

Where is Everest located?

Mount Everest is located in the Himalayan range, on the border between Nepal and Tibet (China).

How high is its peak?

Everest rises to 8,848 meters above sea level, making it the highest mountain in the world. For comparison, the summit of Mont Blanc is 4,809 m above sea level, and Kilimanjaro is the highest point in Africa, with an altitude of 5,895 m.

Extreme weather conditions

Everest's weather conditions are a real hazard for climbers. With an average temperature of - 36° C or -32.8° F at the top (which can drop to - 60° C or -76° F in winter), climbers must be well-equipped in order to face the cold.

The wind is the mountain's most difficult challenge

However, the most difficult thing to bear is the wind, which is violent as well as icy and can reach 200 km/hourmaking the ascent all the more complicated.

When is the best time to go?

It takes about 40 days of walking to reach the summit of Everest and acclimatize to the altitude. The best times to embark on the adventure are spring (March to May) and autumn (September to November) when weather conditions are the most stable.

When was Everest discovered?

Everest was first discovered by Westerners in 1847. It was later identified as the highest peak in the world thanks to Sir George Everest and his team. The mountain was renamed in honor of the Everast in 1865.

The first expedition up Everest

The very first Everest expedition dates back to 1921. At that time, the British attempted to climb Everest first, passing through the northeast slope of Tibet.

The first expedition

Since access to Nepal was not allowed at the time, a team of six (pictured), including mountaineer George Mallory, set off on a reconnaissance mission to chart the easiest route to the summit. For this first expedition, the team climbed up to 7,000 meters above sea level.

Second attempt

During the second expedition, in 1922, the objective was to reach the top of the mountain. Two climbers in the group managed to climb to an altitude of 8,320 meters, with respiratory assistance. But this ascent was marked by the death of seven Sherpas, caused by a violent avalanche.

What is the "death zone"?

In mountaineering, the "death zone" refers to an area of extreme altitude, at which there is so little oxygen that humans cannot acclimatize naturally. This zone is generally located 8,000 meters above sea level.

Oxygen aid to survive

Climbers who reach the "death zone" lack oxygen and face an increased risk of pulmonary and cerebral edema, which can be fatal. They must therefore use oxygen cylinders to continue their progress up the mountain.

1924: a fatal expedition for George Mallory

Britain's George Mallory was more than determined to climb to the top of the mountain and in 1924, he ascended with his group to an altitude of 8,100 m.

The death of George Mallory and Andrew Irvine

Porters remained at the camp they erected and were the last people to see Mallory and his teammate Andrew Irvine alive. The extreme weather conditions took the lives of the two men. But were they able to reach the top before they died?

A body found intact

The body of George Mallory was discovered in 1999 by an American, at an altitude of 8,290 meters, on the north face of Everest. His body was well preserved but there was no evidence that the mountaineer had reached the summit of Everest.

They likely didn't make it to the top

According to several scientists, it was impossible that someone could climb to the top of Mount Everest with the means available at the time.

1950: opening of the Nepalese route

In 1950, the annexation of Tibet by China prevented mountaineers from repeating their expeditions on the Tibetan side. But the opening of the borders of Nepal gave them a new route to the summit of Everest: climbers could take the Nepalese route on the southeastern slope of Everest, which was apparently less perilous than the Chinese routes.

The first people to reach the summit of Everest

On May 29, 1953, mountaineers reached the summit of Everest for the first time while using an oxygen system. They were Edmund Hillary, a New Zealand explorer, and Tensing Norgay, a Nepalese Sherpa, who you can see in the photo.

Conquering the feat

After Hillary summited Everest. Mountaineers from around the world wanted to take up new challenges and break new records. In 1975, Japan's Junko Tabei was the first woman to summit Everest. In 1980, Reinhold Messner (photo) was the first mountaineer to successfully climb solo, and without respiratory assistance.

Beginning of commercial expeditions

In 1991, commercial expeditions were launched. Many agencies developed guided trips to help others ascent Everest, a dream for mountaineers around the world. But the dream wasn't cheap...

A very high price

The price of an ascent of Everest varies according to each agency, the choice of route, or even the level of service. Generally, the cost of an expedition now is between $35,000 and $70,000 per person. A journey that is therefore not accessible to everyone.

Sherpas always accompany mountaineers

Besides the price, not everyone can embark on the ascent of Everest since the climb is only really for trained and experienced mountaineers. Sherpas, a traditional Himalayan people, accompany and help mountaineers, guiding them and carrying their belongings on the way to the ascent.

The ascent permit

To be allowed to climb to the summit of Everest, mountaineers must first obtain a climbing permit, issued by the Department of Tourism Industry of Nepal.

Getting a permit isn't easy

To obtain this permit, mountaineers must meet certain conditions, such as proving that they have already successfully climbed at least one peak of 6,500 meters or more, as well as providing a medical certificate attesting to their good physical condition.

More security

With the issuance of a climbing permit, the objective of the Nepalese and Tibetan authorities is to regulate the number of mountaineers who climb Everest each year in order to guarantee their safety and preserve the environment of the mountain.

Drama and controversy

Several dramas and controversies have led authorities to strengthen regulations over the years, a situation that has troubled some Everast enthusiasts.

1996: a dramatic year

The year 1996 was marked by a series of accidents on Everest, causing the deaths of 15 people. May 10, 1996, is considered the darkest day in Everast's history.

The amateur mountaineers neglected the weather

At the time, amateur mountaineers climbed the paths of Everest with two different guides, both of which neglected the weather conditions on the mountain.

A violent storm

At the top, a violent snowstorm descends on them and causes the death of eight people. The film "Everest" (2015) recounted this dramatic episode of the mountain's history.

2019: deadly traffic jams

The increasing number of climbers on Everest has caused deadly traffic jams in the Mountain's "death zone" as well. In the spring of 2019, freezing conditions led to a reduction in their flow of oxygen, and several serious incidents claimed a total of 11 victims during that year's climbing season.

A sad and famous photo

In May 2019, a photo of Nepalese mountaineer Nirmal Purja, the subject of the Netflix documentary "14 x 8000: At the Summits of the Impossible", caused a stir online and pushed Nepalese authorities to limit the number of climbing granted permits issued each year.

Photo: Instagram / @nimdai

2020: a client files a complaint against his guide

In 2020, a client filed a complaint against his guide Garrett Madison for not attempting to reach the summit and demanded a refund of his "Everest ticket". In 2022,  it was ruled that the guide made the right decision when it was found that he aborted the expedition due to bad weather conditions, which could have led to the death of his climbing party.

How many mountaineers have reached Everast's summit in 2022?

According to Alan Arnette, a specialist in the ascent of Everest, 700 people were estimated to have climbed Everest in 2022. Among these mountaineers, 640 were taken from the Nepalese side.

Photo: Devraj Bajgain/Pixabay

Most lives lost on Everest

These 640 people were divided into "240 customers for 399 Sherpas". Unfortunately, three people lost their lives during their ascents of Everest: a Russian client, a Sherpa, and a Nepalese guide.

Heroes erased

The real heroes of these expeditions remain the Sherpas, who each year help hundreds of mountaineers achieve their dreams. According to a study by researchers from the University of Washington and UC Davis University, the success rate of climbing Everest has doubled over the past thirty years, and the courage and Sherpas' altruism certainly has something to do with it.

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